Just a wonderful trip. A journey with my two favorite things - my surfboard and my camera.
The window open, the warm breeze, things left behind but things to discover. 4 days of 300m surf rides on my 9 foot 2 Inches mal, 3 hour sessions, 40 waves, 4 - 5 foot hawaiin perfection. In between these wonderful surf sessions was me carrying my Polaroid, trying to make some magic, capturing that feeling of the 70's. The 70's when I was a kid and things were different, and this trip started to feel the same.
Oh, one thing worth a mention was in between this fun I was able to swim in a platypus billabong with no sound, freezing water and at - 3 degrees 5.30am.
With all these things coming together I felt I was starting to balance - not up, not down but very happy sitting in the middle.
So I collected 100's of beautiful waves and I collected 40 Polaroids, On the way home my bag was full of wonderful feelings and memories.
In actual fact my bag also contained just a few small round rocks I had collected at the surf line as a present for my daughter.
To bring the journey to a fitting close, it started raining all the way home.
So for a while now I have been able to think, talk and surf in 'The Thin Straight Line'.